Sausage-making with a star charcutier


On Friday it was the Humble by Nature ‘Ham It Up’ sausage-making course directed by Graham Waddington of Native Breeds. Graham and I have worked together a few times now and I always eagerly anticipate his courses at the farm because he is quite simply amazing at what he does.  During the course, Graham had everyone producing some seriously sensational sausages and, most importantly, understanding the techniques needed to reproduce them again at home.



Graham started the course by talking about the ingredients used in producing some of the world’s finest sausages, closely followed by a tasting session so everyone could try out the sausages they’d be making during the day.

Some of Graham’s Native Breeds delicacies – boudin blanc, boudin noir, wild boar sausages, chorizo and frankfurters, all made using locally produced, rare breed meat.

This was a hands-on course and guests were soon putting on their aprons, rolling up their sleeves and making incredible batches of the most delicious sausages including smoked Viennese sausages, Italian fennel salcicce, sweet paprika-flavoured chorizo and beautifully delicate boudin blanc.

Every guest made four different types of sausages during the day so everyone had the chance to master each stage of the process

Learning how to tie sausages

The first practical session of the day – Viennese sausages, which were put into the smoker and came out just in time for lunch.

Graham holding a batch of Viennese sausages, fresh out of the smoker for lunch

I couldn’t believe we’d get through all of these at lunchtime…but we did!

The lunch menu complimented the sausages the team made in the morning including sauerkraut seasoned with caraway and homemade Dijon mayonnaise 

A prelude to the afternoon’s practical session of chorizo-making

The lovely, soft hot dog rolls for lunch were from of a brilliant recipe by Hawksmoor – a milk dough with a custard base

The main topic of conversation at lunch?  Sausages of course!

An autumnal fruit salad for pudding – figs, apricots and prunes with cinnamon, cloves and honey – along with something altogether more indulgent… 

Brioche & butter pudding with prunes and sultanas

In the afternoon, Graham invited me to have a go at making boudin blanc. Graham explained how the use of frozen jersey milk and semi-frozen minced chicken thigh meat keeps all the ingredients as cold as possible to result in a successful emulsion and binding of pork back fat to the mixture.

The home team making boudin blanc – Tim Stephens, Graham and me (with many thanks to Ian Callaghan for the photograph)

After tea, everyone headed home with a Humble by Nature recipe folder packed with all the sausage notes and recipes from the day…along with bags of chorizo, Italian fennel salcicce and boudin blanc.

Next time, I’m going to get someone else to do the food because I simply HAVE to find out how Graham makes that chorizo!



  1. This is a fantastic course that I can not recommend highly enough, the whole team make the day enjoyable and I learnt so much.

  2. kathmar says:

    It was an absolute pleasure having you on the course. I hope you enjoy the sausages you made and come and see us again soon. (We’ve got some very exciting new charcuterie courses in the pipeline – watch this space!)

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